WINTER SAFETY TIPS

Cold weather can be hard on pets, just like it can hard on people.  Sometimes owners forget that their pets are just as accustomized to the warm shelter of the indoors as they are.  Some owners will leave their animals outside for extended periods of time, thinking that all animals are adapted to live outdoors.  This can put their pets in danger of serious illness.

If pets are kept outdoors, they must be provided with a heated or insulated shelter that is elevated off the ground and have a door of some kind to keep out winter winds, sleet and snow.  Water sources may be heated to permit constant access to unfrozen water.  Outdoor pets also require extra calories to keep warm.  In severely cold or inclement weather, no pet should be kept outside.

If you light a fire or plug in a space heater to keep warm, keep an eye out to make sure that no tails or paws come in contact with flames, heating coils, or hot surfaces.  Pets can either burn themselves or knock a heat source over and put the entire household in danger.

Many people will be “winterizing” their cars this winter, including a change of antifreeze.  Keep both new and old antifreeze in sealed container, out of reach of pets.  Even very small amounts are extremely toxic causing kidney failure and often can be fatal in just a few days.

While you are busy making your festive plans for the holidays, remember there are some things you should not share with your pet.  Once you know the precaution and prevention, it will make holidays a happy time for everyone.  Some of the more common holiday hazards include:

Bones: Do not feed any types of bones to your pet.  Small bones or bone chips can lodge in the throat, stomach and intestinal tract.

Chocolate: Many people do not realize that chocolate can be a poison.  Unsweetened baking chocolate carries a much higher dose of a toxin “theobromine” than milk chocolate.  

TOXIC PLANTS AND PRODUCTS

Low Toxicity - Poinsettia leaves/ stems; balsam/ pine/ cedar/ fir, angel hair; Christmas tree preservatives; snow sprays/ snow flock; tree ornaments; super glue; Styrofoam; icicles/ tinsel/ ribbons; and crayons/ paint.

Moderate Toxicity-  Fireplace salts; plastic model cement; bubbling lights and aftershaves/ perfumes/ alcoholic beverages.

High Toxicity- Holly berries/ leaves; mistletoe/ berries; electric light cords; and ivy.

BONES ARE DANGEROUS

Please, please don’t feed your pets bones, especially poultry bones.  Poultry bones splinter easily. 

Ribbons & Tinsel are of special interest to playful cats and kittens who see these materials as toys to be chased, pounced upon, chewed or swallowed.  They are thin and sharp and can wrap around intestines or ball up in the stomach.

Keep harmful objects out of your pet’s reach.  A little prevention may be just enough to avoid pet tragedy from happening in your home.

National Animal Poison Control

1-888-426-4435

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"Bad Kitty!" - How to handle destructive behavior in cats.

Almost half of all household cats are relinquished to humane societies or are euthanized due to their destructiveness, but many of these "problems" are simply normal feline behavior. This article will discuss a few easy and inexpensive ways of deterring these unacceptable behaviors.

Scratching objects is an inherited behavior. They do it to keep their claws healthy as well as to mark their territory. The simplest way of preventing destruction is by moving items to where the cat has no access, such as inside of a closed room. This may not always be possible so the next most simple thing to do is to clip the cats' claws. This usually does not stop the behavior but it does make the action less damaging. Many owners are afraid to do this but it is a fairly simple procedure with the right clippers and the right training. Routine clipping, about every two to three weeks, not only limits damage to objects, it is also important in maintaing nails properly. If left to grow, nails can curl down and imbed into the pads of the feet. Scratching post are also a wonderful thing to try. Cats usually scratch verticle obects so posts placed in very appealing places could distract the cat from your couch. Another thing to try is securing bubble wrap to favorite spots. It is effective, inexpensive and does not require you to implement the punishment. Declawing is another way to control destructive behavior. It is also a permanant and painful solution that should be carefully considered before done. As a final alternative, your veterinarian can peform this surgery with minimal post-operative pain. Since cats live in and around our homes, they see this area as their territory. Our belongings are simply parts of their territory that must be marked and protected. Behavioral modification can work. Call your veterinarian for more information and helpful pamphlets.

"Painful Ears"

Sore ears are a common problem for cats and dogs. They may shake or tilt their heads, or scratch at their ears. There are many causes of sore ears. Ear mites, infection, foreign bodies, polyps, or even allergies can cause a painful ear. It may be necessary to perform diagnostic tests to determine which treatment is most suitable. Bacterial cultures, cytology from ear swabs, xrays and even blood examination may be necessary to make an accurate diagnosis.

"Red Eyes"

It is always difficult to determine when to call for veterinary help when your pet is not 100%. One situation that usually needs immediate professional attention is red and/or swollen eyes. Ulcerations and abrasions can rapidly become site-threatening, leading to permanent damage, even blindness. Caution must be used in treating eye problems with home remedies. The wrong ointment can make the problem much worse. If your pet's eyes are red, discharging, bleeding or swollen, or if your pet is squinting or rubbing its eyes, get veterinary help as soon as possible.

"Abscesses in cats"

Cats kept outside often get into fights resulting in infected wounds. The skin may heal, but underneath the surface an abscess may develop. The first sign of an abscess may be extreme lethargy and his ears may feel warm due to an elevated temperature. Swelling and tenderness may develop and the infection may begin to drain blood and pus. Abscesses often create a pungent odor. If you notice such an odor, your cat might have an abscess you have not yet noticed. These wounds require intensive surgical and medical treatment. Get veterinary attention as soon as possible.

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"Heartworm"

This is a disease that is spread by the bite of the mosquito. It has been long known that heartworm disease is a serious threat to the dog population. We are now finding more incidents of heartworms in cats. The signs caused by heartworms in the cat are subtle, but cats with chronic vomiting or signs of respiratory distress may have an active infection of heartworms. Unfortunately, in some cases, the only sign of this disease in cats is sudden death. A heartworm preventative has recently become available for the cat and should be considered whether or not your cat goes outside, as mosquitoes can enter the house easily.

Questions Answered About Neutering

Why should I have my pet neutered?

1. First and foremost, for population control.  The dog and cat world is already overpopulated.  There are millions of pets in pounds waiting to be adopted.  Give them a chance!  Your pet may be responsible for dozens of unwanted pregnancies.
   
   
2. Uncastrated males are more susceptible to several related health problems:
   1. Testicular tumors, which often become malignant, are common in dogs, but obviously non-existent in the neutered male.
      
      
   2. Prostatic cancer, also tending to be malignant and prostatic enlargement are much less common in male dogs neutered before the age of three years.
      
      
   3. Other hormone related diseases such as perineal hernias and perineal adenomas are reduced.
      
      
   4. The strong smell of "tom cat" urine is eliminated with the absence of male hormone production.
      
      
   5. Also related to decreasing hormone levels is the reduced tendency to fight other males, thus preventing bite wounds and abscesses.
      
      
   6. Castrated males are not prone to disease transmitted by sexual contact such as Feline Leukemia, Brucellosis and other venereal diseases.
      
      
3. Finally, neutering your pet will decrease his sex drive.  This prevents roaming tendencies.  Roaming increases the risk of being stolen, hit by cars, and getting into fights with other animals.

But above all, your pet is happier-he doesn't realize what he is missing.  He has no desire for "sex", which would be unfulfilled anyway.  He is in much better physical condition with the absence of this stress, and can focus all of his attention on being a faithful companion.

What is involved in neutering my pet?

Your pet will be given a short acting anesthetic, an incision will be made in the scrotal area and his testicles will be removed.  Depending on the veterinarian performing the surgery, dogs require sutures to close the incisions, which need to be removed in seven to ten days.  Cats heal well without closing the incisions.  He will be able to go home at the end of the day although he may be a little groggy.  Within a day or two, he will feel as well as he did before surgery.  All in all, the long-term rewards of a healthier, happier pet and companion make this routine procedure one of the best things you can do for him.

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Why Should I Spay My Pet?

There are many and behavioral benefits to having your female dog or cat spayed:

1. Convenience to owner - Eliminates "heat" or estrous cycles: no bloody discharge.

• Eliminates the scent that attracts annoying males.
• No need to confine your female while in heat.
• Eliminates the frantic pacing and crying by the female while in heat (cats are especially vocal at that time).

2. Better health for your pet
• Eliminates all of the problems and potential risks involved with pregnancy and birth.
  
  
3. Helps decrease the overpopulation problem

• By not bringing more unwanted puppies and kittens into the world.
• Rids you of the worry of what to do with unplanned litters of puppies and kittens.

4. Eliminates sexual frustration
   • Decreases your pet's desire to roam in search of a
     mate-decreasing the possibility of fights with other
     animals, car accidents, etc.
   • Lets your pet relax and enjoy being part of the family.

Myths

• Spaying will make my pet fat.    Spaying your pet will not make her fat and lazy.  Too much food and not enough exercise are the main causes of obesity.
  
  
• She should have one litter first.    It is actually better for herNOT to have a litter or even a heat cycle before being spayed.  They can be spayed as early as four months.
  
  
• Spaying will hurt her.    Spaying is a safe and relatively painless operation done by a licensed veterinarian.  Pain medication is available if you would like your pet to have some.
  
  
• I will be able to find homes for my puppies & kittens.    You may be able to find them all homes but are your sure they are all good homes?  And remember each time you place one of your puppies or kittens, somewhere else an animal is being put to sleep because there was no home for him.  Right now in the United States 15 million animals are being euthanized each year. J.A. Webster Inc./Webstar.

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Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease

Feline lower urinary tract disease, or F.LU.T.D, is a complex disease affecting many cats.  The cause of the disease is not entirely known, but often involve a combination of factors.  Many times an animal encounters stress and develops a bacterial infection that causes the pH of the urine to become basic.  This tends to produce an ideal environment for the bacteria to continue multiplying.  When the pH decreases, certain minerals (namely magnesium and phosphorus) form microscopic clusters around the bacteria.  This is obviously irritating to the bladder and can cause bloody urine.  Depending on the immune status of the cat (how well the body fights infection), and the cat's anatomy, the effects of F.L.U.T.D. can present themselves quite differently.

  Female, cats, because of the size of their urethra (the opening the bladder empties in to), usually only develop strong smelling, bloody urinary tract infections which often only causes them to miss the litter box.  The effects of F.L.U.T.D. on male cats, however, can be much more devastating.  The microscopic crystals that pass freely in the female get trapped in the very tip of the penis, making the cat unable to urinate.  After 24 hours or so, the bladder is full and the kidneys have nowhere to store the urine they produce.  These waste products build up in the blood stream and the cat becomes very sick.  If this process continues, the bladder can actually rupture and urine will spill into the abdomen.  There is nothing that can be done for the cat at this point.

    The problem with F.L.U.T.D. is that the signs are not readily apparent until the disease is well progressed.  It is imperative to catch a cat who is "blocked" in the early stages to prevent further damage.  A few signs to watch for are:

1. Frequent and prolonged trips to the litter box,
2. crying while urinating,
3. blood in it's urine,
4. lethargy,
5. no appetite for food or water,
6. painful in the abdomen
7. vomiting
8. Being down and out, completely unresponsive to any stimuli.

  If any of these signs are noticed, especially if the cat has a history of F.L.U.T.D., the situation should be treated as an emergency and a veterinarian should see the animal immediately. 

  The treatment for F.L.U.T.D. varies with the severity of the disease.  Initial emergency treatment will involve placing an intravenous catheter and a urinary catheter.  The intravenous catheter will provide the cat with essential fluids he has been missing and the urinary catheter will break up the blockage as well allow passage for all of the stored urine.  Passing the urinary catheter is usually done under general anesthesia since it can be a long and painful process.  The urinary catheter will remain sutured in until the urine is no longer bloody and the stream is steady.  Once the catheter is removed and the cat can urinate on his own, antibiotics are prescribed and he must go on a special diet.  This diet restricts the minerals that form the crystals and also acidifies the urine to make it harder for the bacteria to grow. Often, proper management of the diet is enough to prevent the recurrence of F.L.U.T.D.  However, if he continues to have recurrent episodes of the disease, surgery may be required.

Introducing A Second Bird Into Your Home
Article from: Hampton Road's Pet Lovers Magazine, Pet Tails
April - May 2005 issue, page 14

As experienced pet bird owners can attest, once you enter the enchanting world of bird keeping, acquiring more birds is the logical next step. But fefore you add a second bird to your "flock," make sure you consider the health of your primary bird, both physically and mentally.

Protect Against Disease

Never introduce a new bird into your home without a proper quarantine period. Many avian veterinarians suggest a quarantine of between thirty and sixty days, because some illnesses may not show any symptoms within a 30 day period. So it's always better to be afe than sorry.

To quarantine your new bird, keep it as far from your other bird as possible, at a minimum in a separate bedroom with the door closed.

During the quarantine period, be absolutely meticulous about sanitation. Thouroughly wash after caring for, touching, or playig with either bird. Don't swap dishes, toys, perches, and other equipment. Clean both cages daily, starting with the existing bird's cage first. Being stringent about cleanliness greatly reduces he chance of passing along any hidden illness to your existing bird.

Once the quarantine period is over, take your new bird to an avian veterinarian for a complete health exam. You may want to have your bird's flight feathers clipped at this time also. Once your new bird is given a clean bill health, you can begin introducing himto your existing pet.

Make Introductions Smooth And Stress-free

While all birds have distinct personalities, usally birds tend to get along well with members of their same species. For example, smaller birds such as finches and "budgies" generally assimilate well. Larger birds like parrots may require more effort on your part to successfully integrate into a harmonious "flock."

Adding a new bird to your flock is not without its challenges and does require a substantial amount to work. If you are unsure whether or not bringing home a new bird is the right thing for your flock, research the topic by consulting an avian behaviorist, veterinarian, or breeder.

Five steps to a Smooth introduction

1. House both birds in their own cages in the same room. This allows them to get to know each other from within their own comfortable territory.
2. Attend to each bird separately. Provide separate lay sessions for each bird.
3. Treat your existing bird as the "alpha" bird. This will help him remain confident in his place in your flock and help combat jealousy. Greet him first, feed him first, and attend to him first. But be sure to give each bird equal amounts of your time, while reassuring your existing bird that he has not lost his place in the flock, or in your heart.
4. Eventually allow the birds to exercise outside their cage at the same time. A new play stand is great for this purpose, as it provides a "neutral" space for them to socialize and play together.
5. Watch closely for signs of jealousy or incompatibility. Closely monitor both birds and be alert for pulling feathers, biting, screaming, lunging, and other signs of aggression. If these behaviors occur, separate the birds immediately. Self-mutilation is another sign that your bird may be struggling with jealousy or territorial issues.
   
   Adding a new bird to your flock is a wonderful way to reduce loneliness and promote natural social behavior. But it is not without its challenges.

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